"Pop The Cork ~ Taste The Music"
Diary
The Fine Wine Trio Goes To Africa (and Jordan...)
By Gene Perla and Rob Bargad
MORROCO
EGYPT
ZAMBIA
KENYA
RWANDA
KENYA II
JORDAN
| It started with the usual review of the International Musician, the A. F. of M. (American Federation of Musicians) monthly newspaper publication. In it was a notice that the U. S. Department of State, and the Kennedy Center in Washington, DC, was offering a “Jazz Ambassador” program to musical trios. The theme of the 2001 season celebrates the 100th anniversary of the birth of Louis “Pops” Armstrong. The Fine Wine Trio decided to apply, made the first cut (28 of 74), and won a slot (1 of 7). From start to finish, the process took nearly a year until it was time to tour Africa and the Near East. | |
| Actually, something happened earlier that became an important aspect of the tour. During April of 2000, we played the Blue Note Jazz Club Sunday brunches in New York City, and it was on the first Sunday that a Japanese gentleman approached Gene (Perla, the bassist in the group) after the first set. The gentleman was interested to know his approach to playing the upright bass in terms of left arm positioning and other matters. After responding, and inquiring as to why he was asking those questions, Gene was told that as a representative of the Yamaha Corporation, Musical Instrument Division, his specific function was to market a new instrument call the “Silent Bass.” Gene became curious and eventually met him several months later, again in New York City, to offer his input on how the instrument sounded and functioned. And since the audition was looming for the DOS (Department of State), it was settled that an instrument would be provided to Gene for that activity. One of the DOS’s requirements was that bassists could not, for space considerations, bring large upright basses on the tour. The Silent Bass's body is basically a shell of the big bass, and it's assembly and disassembly makes it more portable and practical for long tours in strange places - places that most likely wouldn't be too familiar with transporting ANY type of basses... | |
| Once it became known that the Fine Wine Trio was going to tour, the objective became to interest Yamaha in supporting the Trio as endorsers, and it came to pass. Yamaha supplied us with the “Hip Gig” drum set and S30 keyboard in addition to the "Silent Bass." | |
| Commencing on May 29, we headed, by car, from New York City to Washington, DC. The following morning, we met with representatives of the DOS and were briefed on various aspects of the tour. That evening, we gave a concert at the Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts. It was a sell-out crowd (free concert!!!) and broadcast live on the Internet. According to all reports, it was a successful presentation. On May 31, after a morning stint at the gym, we made our way to Washington Dulles Airport and winged to Paris. | |
| With a day off, instead of sleeping, we elected to see Notre Dame, Isle St. Louis and the left bank. Rob (Bargad, Fine Wine's pianist/vocalist) led us to Le Deux Magots, a famous old cafe, and then to Taverne St. Germain for heaps of tasty mussels and frites. Jet lag hit us around 8:30 PM, so we taxied back to the hotel. We had accomplished a hang in Paris and getting on a normal schedule in that part of the world. On to Africa... | |
| TOP | MOROCCO |
| The following morning (June 2) we made our way to Rabat, Morocco and were met by Mohammed Guedira, a DOS Cultural Affairs Officer (CAO). We were thrilled to receive a welcome package that included a stack of money (for hotels, food), thenceforth referred to by the Trio as "the brick." Later that evening Jeffery Hill, another CAO, escorted us to the popular Medina (old city) restaurant Dinarjat. We feasted on classic Moroccan dishes like Bistilla (pigeon pie), Tagines (stewed lamb with prunes and almonds or vegetables, chicken with preserved lemon), and vegetable Couscous (being basically vegetarian, Gene loved the taste and texture of the Moroccan vegetables). All the while we were entertained by two wonderful musicians: one who played the “sitar,” a Moroccan cross between an autoharp and a dulcimer, and the other played the typical Terbouka drum used in Andalusian/Moroccan music. The Trio was delighted watching our waiter pour peppermint tea from an extended left hand raised high above his head into a small cup aboard a tray positioned near the floor in his other hand. All his subsequent executions of this intrigue never once failed to hit the mark. Although very impressive at first sight, this acrobatic tea pouring is mainly for tourists. The classic sweet mint tea is usually served from metal trays in glasses with fresh mint leaves. | |
| The tour began in earnest on June 3 with an interview at RTM, a Moroccan radio station. Hosted by charming radio personality Jean Paul Noah, and assisted with translations by Dominique Benbrahim, Cultural Affairs Specialist (CAS), we discussed music and our career experiences. A lovely woman, Dominique provided us with much information about Rabat, other cities we would visit, and Morocco in general. That evening, a reception in our honor was held at the home of Jack McCreary, Public Affairs Officer (PAO). Sixty guests enjoyed hearing such Louis Armstrong favorites as “Hello Dolly” and “Mack The Knife.” Turns out that Mr. McCreary is also an avid alto saxophonist and promised he would join us for our upcoming workshop. | |
| On June 4, with Dominique, Mohammed, and our driver (another Mohammed), we traveled to Meknes, a city located in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. We were thrilled to see banners strung on all main streets leading to the central circle announcing our arrival and performance at the Municipality. In collaboration with Grande Ismailia Association, the concert was well received albeit sparsely attended due to it being the eve of the great prophet Mohammed’s birthday celebration. Nevertheless, the enthusiasm of the local jazz lovers became evident during a tea gathering whereupon we were presented with a gold medallion of the “Ville de Meknes.” We were told, after the show, that the evening's intense political discourse brought about the rejuvination of a "sister-city" relationship between Meknes and Atlanta, Georgia. Less than a week on the road... and we were a part of history! | |
| On June 5 we took a much longer journey southward to Marrakech. On the way out of Meknes, we stopped to view and record the annual “Fantasia.” It involves horses racing across an open field with their riders' guns blazing while musicians stroll about and play festive accompaniment. We switched drivers and guides in along the way in Casablanca. Our new team included Cultural Affairs Assistant Abdelkrim Raddadi - affectionately known as “Dadi.” And he became just that due to his great knowledge of Moroccan and contacts at all levels of activity. With him we experienced the great Souk (marketplace) of Marrakech and the wonderful sights, sounds and smells of the famous Jemaa El Fna town square. There we ate wonderful foods of all types (fried fish steaks, eggplant, lamb head, great bread, AMAZING olives, and salsa), most of it cooked right before our eyes and all sprinkled with Camon, a mixture of cumin, salt and pepper. Rob, forever the cook, was asked to join the local chefs for a memorable photograph. The wafting smoke and scintillating scents of the food stalls, a never-ending procession of families, vendors, musicians, animals, taxis and tourists made it an experience that will be long remembered as very special. We even went back the very next night for another feast. | |
| On June 6 the musical events in Marrakech included an informal jam session with several student percussionists and an evening performance at the Dar Attaqufa auditorium in collaboration with the Ministry of Culture and Communication. Due to the continuing observed religious holiday, the concert was somewhat sparsely attended, but again, response to the music was genuine and appreciative. Another deterrent to attendance was a sudden sandstorm that let us know that the desert is unpredictable and holds great power. Also powerful was the daytime temperature, which can reach well over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Gene almost passed out after lunch on the day of the show, avoiding a near blackout by swallowing some salt and LOTS of water and recovering in the air-conditioned van. | |
| On June 7 we headed back to Casablanca. On the way we stopped for some delicious roadside cantaloupes and later for lunch at a nice Italian restaurant. Rob came away with some of the chef's delicious homemade-spiced oil and a tube of local hot sauce, called Harissa. A light performance was given that night at Villa Mirador, the residence of the American Consul General, Nabeel Khoury (and the place where Churchill signed the treaty to end WW2). Attended by some fifty guests, the reception was in honor of the American Chamber of Commerce. As a special request, we played our rendition of “As Time Goes By,” a Casablanca favorite. | |
| June 8 - after a short walkabout of the impressive Hassan II Mosque, Rob visited the local beach clubs and Bobby and I were given a tour of the smaller Medina. On the way back to the hotel, the van decided to stop working. We all were relieved that it didn’t happen on some long stretch of the desert on the way back from Marrakech (that would happen later). That evening, at the Sidi Belyout Theater, we performed to an enthusiastic near-capacity crowd - a cross section of locals, embassy people, artists and musicians. Many compliments were received, and it was a pleasure to know that our music was being appreciated. Afterward, we took a walk around the block and heard music coming from an upstairs window. It was a hotel nightclub and there we sat listening to Andalusian music from a nine-piece orchestra and wonderful singer. The band never seemed to take a break and soon the singer was replaced by a voluptuous belly dancer! Another great evening. | |
| June 9 - We returned to Rabat. At something they called "the newly created jazz club 'Espace Jazz'" (a converted community center room), we gave a workshop for local musicians (saxophone (including jack McCreary), trumpet and keyboard players). We worked on structure and improvisation using the popular jazz standard “So What.” With our cumulative experience as players, vocalists, composers and arrangers, the Trio presented the concepts of music in simple, clear terms that transcended language barriers. Later that night, our Moroccan tour culminated in a sold-out, rock-solid performance at the annual festival “Ete Oceanique” organized by the French Institute. The open-air concert took place in a beachside theater, where the Bou Regreg River meets the Atlantic Ocean. Our backdrop was an old castle wall - a truly delightful setting. We ended the evening's performance with a beautiful, one-chorus encore of “When You Wish Upon A Star.” The audience went wild! | |
| We wrapped up our visit to Morocco with a newspaper interview on the morning of June 10. Gene had a pleasant lunch with Dominique and her family. The rest of the day for us was just that Ð a rest day for reflecting on a week of wonderful experiences (and packing for Egypt!). | |
| TOP | EGYPT |
| June 11 - It was a long trip from Rabat, Morocco to Cairo, Egypt connecting through Paris. Commencing in Rabat at 6:30 AM, arrival in Cairo was, with time differences taken into account, fifteen hours later. Especially frustrating was the fact that our checked baggage (all clothing and instruments) never showed up in Cairo. | |
| The following day was spent rounding up substitute instruments, which we played at what turned out to be the best ever attended event at the Cairo Opera House. It was great to talk with Egyptian musicians after the show, as well. A great round of applause (and special thanks from Fine Wine) was given to the U. S. Embassy staff members who performed impressively in securing instruments (and clothes), especially Mr. Michael Pelletier and Ms. Nimet Naguib. | |
| Rob and Bobby (Kapp, our drummer and vocalist) had a fantastic time at the Cairo marketplace, the Khan El Khallily. They walked for two hours amidst a never-ending array of goods and produce and spices and people that boggled their minds. Finally, they popped out of the market at the other end and found a taxi to go back to the hotel. Later that evening, after the show, we enjoyed a fabulous meal at the Felfela Restaurant. Birdcages, fish tanks, old sewing machines and antique radios added a sweet charm to delightful and delicious delicacies such as lentil soup, tomato salad, falafel, foul (beans), lamb with rice pilaf, and stuffed vegetables. What a great meal to end a great day! | |
| On June 13, we enjoyed a leisurely visit to the main market. Street after street and alley after alley were packed with shops selling all types of merchandise. We enjoyed eating various foods as we meandered through the area. Rob took Polaroids of some of the merchants and their kids and they brought him gifts in exchange for pictures! We had the great pleasure to have been accompanied by Nahla El Henawy, whom we had met at the previous night’s concert. She helped us to translate conversations with the merchants - a very big (and necessary) help for bargaining. | |
| Later, after a sound check, we presented our music to a gathering of invited guests at the home of the Public Affairs Counselor Mrs. Marcelle Wahba. It was a catered affair and the food was a wonderful sampling of local dishes and sweets. Rob's tube of harissa was a big hit at his and Bobby's table. During dinner, and after most of our shows in the weeks to come, we would be told how much Jazz was enjoyed generally (and missed, especially by the American expatriates). | |
| June 14 started with a drive to Alexandria, Egypt. Upon arrival, we checked into the Metropole Hotel, an old classic European style hotel overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. In the evening, we gave a reception concert at the home of PAO Juliet Wurr. A very cute lady with lots of energy, she made sure that we were well cared for. Due to an excess power drain by the lighting system, power was temporarily lost to the instruments. Then, as we were concluding an early number, the last Muslim call to prayer of the day was played over loudspeakers through the city. Needless to say, we let the prayer call finish and then finished the show. Several of the guests expressed their appreciation of our approach to the situation. | |
| Prior to the performance, the Trio gave a TV interview with a flamboyant female host (the Egyptian Oprah?). She must have been popular, because the following day we were approached on the streets of Alexandria by people who said to us “I know you. I saw you on TV last night.” After the show Gene gave an interview to Ms. Jehanne Moharram, which was to appear in the Cairo Times. | |
| The following morning we headed east to the PAO’s beach cabana where we spent several hours relaxing, swimming and soaking in the sun. It was a good rest that gave us energy for the Cairo Yacht Club show later that evening. With the TV exposure and earlier private concert, word had spread and resulted in a packed house (and lots of autograph requests!). The next day we headed back to Cairo but just as we were leaving Alex (as many people call Alexandria) our passenger van developed fuel pump trouble. No problem - we just transferred to the hot and dusty equipment van and continued our journey. | |
| June 16 - Back in Cairo - we left our hotel at 7:30 AM to visit the Giza Pyramids. We spent several hours walking around the giant structures and took photos of the experience including a fun shot with the Sphinx in the background. After being accosted by every postcard salesman and camel driver on the grounds, we thought we were finally safe when two armed tourist policemen on camelback led us away through some deserted back alley ruins. After dismounting and offering us to take photos with them and their camels, one of them asked for a “donation.” It caused us concern given the circumstances, but we extricated ourselves by politely responding that we were short on funds and quickly made an exit. It was just another "shakedown" (as if we wouldn't have enough of that with the airlines' ubiquitous random overweight policies). We were also surprised to see a whole "strip" of trinket shops and American fast food restaurants - right in the shadow of the Pyramids. Many people would be surprised to know that the great Sphinx looks out on to Pizza Hut! | |
| Later - safe, sound and relieved, we returned to the Cairo Opera House for an informal gathering of several music and media businessmen for a roundtable discussion of the state of jazz in Egypt and how things could be improved. It was a lively conversation involving copyright and distribution issues and resulted in several suggestions of how development of this art form could be improved. All the participants agreed to keep in touch and continue the dialog via email. | |
| After one more delightful meal at Felfela, we bade farewell to Cairo and Egypt and Nahla and headed to Zambia via Nairobi, Kenya (with only one unscheduled stop). Thirteen hours later we arrived in Lusaka, Zambia. | |
| TOP | ZAMBIA |
| We were met by at the airport by PAO John Louton and his wife Elizabeth, who were also there to collect their two visiting daughters Amy and Samantha ("Sam"). We were driven to their home and welcomed into their guest house where we were to stay for the next week - not the 5 star hotels that started to spoil us in Morocco and Egypt, but pleasant, well kept and secure (to say the least - "fort" Louton was set behind stone walls topped with razor wire and an iron gate that was opened and closed by 2 charming and intelligent, full time guards). We were pleased to have an opportunity to cook in our own kitchen. After a pleasant lunch at a local Italian (!) restaurant, visiting the U.S. Embassy and shopping at a local food store, Rob, being an experienced culinary expert, pulled out the pots and whipped up a supply of yummy soup, rice, beans, veggies and other goodies (just to be prepared for all sixteen of Gene's mealtimes!). Later that evening we were treated to a Louton family dinner where we enjoyed many stories of their adventures and experiences in China and other previous posts. | |
| June 19 - We spent the day exercising, sunning and eating. We also helped with chores - cleaning the pool, composting, and general maintenance. Phillip, the Louton’s chef and houseman, was beyond generous - washing and ironing the pounds of soiled garments that we had accumulated during the first two and a half weeks on the road. Rob did his own laundry and helped, of course, in the kitchen. The first performance in Zambia was given at the Lusaka Playhouse, a very modest 250-seat auditorium that was well attended by an enthusiastic local crowd. After performing for one hour and a quarter, Bobby announced the last tune and for the first time on the tour, there was no call for an encore. Turns out that the audience assumed it was intermission. Quickly adjusting to the situation, we took our little break and returned to perform for an additional forty-five minutes. The crowd loved it, especially Bobby’s “Back Alley Blues.” We also performed three new pieces that expanded our already large repertoire, one of which was a new song Rob composed during sound check, inspired by scenes in Lusaka and by events yet to come in Africa. He added Lyrics in Kenya and called it "Frangipani Tree," a big hit on the tour and will be as well on our new CD. After the show, we met Andrew "Cool Breeze" Sichali, a local DJ and promoter who invited us to jam at his nightclub, The Brown Frog. With a name like that, we said we'd be there eventually! That night, however, Rob found an open-air bar where people danced to "Rumba" music - the popular music of Congo and Central Africa. We all started to notice that in Africa, if there's music, people dance. Guys with guys, girls with girls, everybody with everybody - if there's a groove, folks are moving! | |
| On June 20 we met approximately ten members of the Zambia Association of Musician (ZAM) and played a few tunes, discussed the state of jazz and Zambian music, and did some jamming with a singer in the style of Al Hibbler/Nat “King” Cole. Afterwards we enjoyed visiting a local outdoor cultural center where we were treated to a performance of tribal drums, singing and dancing. We took many photos and video clips of the event including some special shots of the trio surrounded by many beautiful Zambian children. Later that evening, we visited the Intercontinental Hotel to meet some local Lusaka musicians. We were looking forward to a real African music set but it turned out to be a toned down hotel gig - great musicians playing lounge music for tourists - some things never change... They asked us to play so we did our Jazz thang. We finally got to The Brown Frog to enjoy some reggae-tinged African hip-hop (what a relief!). Rob sat in on piano and Gene on cowbell - Bobby snapped away on the digital camera and we had a ball. Rob stayed late, met 3 nice ladies who worked for the phone company and went out dancing ‘til 4 am! | |
| June 21 - Activities commenced at 9 AM at the American Center where we met a large group of music students from the Evelyn Hone College. After the trio performed a few numbers and answered questions, we asked them if they had formed any performing ensembles. It turned out that the whole class made up several groups - a choir, a solo vocalist/guitarist, an a cappella male vocal quartet, and a fantastic backing band! We were treated to beautiful songs by all of them - African folk songs, gospel songs - we tried to help with information they asked for on harmony, etc. The grand finale included drums, singing and dancing. Bobby and Gene joined in the dancing and Rob played Gene’s bass. Afterwards, we took addresses so we could send sheet music and CD's, even instruments - much needed items in Lusaka. It was all a blast and a truly amazing experience of musical, cultural and just plain human exchange that we'll never forget (we got video!). | |
| Later that afternoon, we relaxed around the pool with the PAO and his family and enjoyed viewing the total solar eclipse. | |
| [A note from Bobby] | |
| Strolling out of the music guest house towards the garden with my five extra sun visors it suddenly occurred to me to venture out of the compound since I was suddenly compelled to do so. Stopped by the guard who's duty it was to open and close the main gate, he began, while at the same time adjusting his red beret, speaking of his grave concern for the conditions in Zambia where we were performing, as far as his people were concerned. Opening the gate I walked outside and several children were passing by in the street as the moon almost had the sun blacked out. I waved them to come to me and handed the first one a set of safe eye protection visors for the eclipse. Suddenly many more children appeared from alley ways and narrow stone streets as if spilled from a magic glass that had tumbled and all I saw were hands and fingers. The guard explained to them in their native language that they could have two sets of visors to share. One of the kids put a visor to his eyes and giggled with glee at the majesty of a once in a life time viewing. He ran off toward an alley and the fingers, hands, and attached bodies disappeared as magically as they had arrived. Two cooks, passing by from the Chinese restaurant across the street, (yes, in Africa!!!) took two pair of visors with serious curiosity and walked away. I was alone again and handing the remaining visor to the guard, motioned him to open the gates once more to let me in. It was totally dark out when only moments ago it was bright afternoon. | |
| June 22 was a calm day (a bit of shopping) culminating in a performance given at the International School of Lusaka (ISL) that was attended by the US Ambassador and other dignitaries. Part of the fun was posing for a picture with Ambassador David B. Dunn as he was seated at Bobby’s “Hip Gig” drum set. Several Americans in the audience told us how much they'd missed Jazz. After the show, Bobby and Gene went home to reflect. Rob hit the dance clubs again and after only a few hours sleep, went with one of the Louton's guards to the "compound" where he and his family (and most of the Zambian people) live. The scene there had a powerful impact on Rob - even his report of the visit affected us. Dusty dirt roads, crowded concrete shacks (some without electricity), rampant disease and inadequate medical facilities - too many kids... but still a vibrant daily market scene, many small businesses, people getting along the best they can considering the circumstances (A typical guard's salary is around $40 a month. His rent alone is $30. If he wants a ride to work it's a $1 a day round trip. Not too much left.). Meanwhile, the president of Zambia just bought himself a $32 million jet. Needless to say, Rob felt a little strange back at the "fort." | |
| Our last day in Zambia, June 23, was quiet (very restful scene at the Louton's, what with the pool, the garden, our own kitchen, the wires and guards, etc.). In the early evening we played a set in the Louton's yard for a party they threw for us. Chef Phillip cooked up a great feast for the affair (his grilled marinated beef tenderloin was the star of the show), which brought together a nice cross section of Lusaka folks - radio people, artists, embassy staff and of course, our man, "Cool Breeze"... Later that evening we made the rounds, hanging and sitting in at “Sam’s Steak House” and “The Brown Frog.” All things considered, many hats go off to the Loutons, who let us in (and all over) their home to relax, use the computer, eat, swim - all in the middle of their family visit. Beautiful people. | |
| TOP | KENYA |
| On June 24 we departed Zambia for Mombasa, Kenya with a plane change in Nairobi. It was a long flight from Zambia. The plane was late leaving, but the connection in Nairobi was unusually smooth and quick. A second plane was held for us, which was nice, and we were met and joined by Constance Jones, the Embassy representative for our Kenya visit. | |
| Mombasa was a delight in that the accommodations were superb. The Mombasa Serena Beach Hotel is a beautiful spot with luxurious facilities and wonderful restaurants with spectacular buffets all included in the very reasonable (off season) rates. We had three days of sight seeing, shopping, swimming in the Indian Ocean and hotel pools, exercising and various other hotel activities - like free teatime and ROOM SERVICE, thank you. Rob found all the sudden luxury a little hard to take after the compound visit in Lusaka, but the ocean view from his room calmed him down and so did the family of cutest little monkeys that climbed up on his balcony to visit at 7AM one morning. A "highlight" was, what could arguably be, the prime candidate for the “Who’s Who” of talking parrots. This bird was loaded with catcalls, whistles, sound effects, American TV themes and some bawdy comments delivered in a steady stream. Always eager to learn, he’d pause if you had something of interest and would soon incorporate into his repertoire. Just the thing you want squawking on your serene beach holiday as you walk to the dining room. Also not to be missed is the beachside grill restaurant where strolling African musicians entertain (mostly) uninterested tourists with no break. Seriously though, the calamari steak that Bobby had there was unique and delicious. Rob had TWO dinners, the food was so good - barracuda marinated in coconut milk and spices and grilled jumbo prawns with garlic. Yummy. | |
| The Mombasa performance occurred on June 26 at the Fort Jesus Museum - a picturesque, historical location situated at the mouth of a river. Originally scheduled outdoors, rain forced the performance inside the museum, the trio surrounded by cases of artifacts. Despite the weather, the Mayor of Mombasa attended the show and the house was packed with appreciative listeners. Did you know they really say "Hakuna Matata" in Kenya? It really does mean "No Problem!" | |
| On June 27 we flew back to Nairobi for a mid-day workshop/performance at the Nairobi National Museum. Later that afternoon we found ourselves at KBC Television Studios for the taping of a 1-hour special. There was nothing set up when we got there, so the trio worked with the director and crew to put the whole thing together from scratch. Our Gracious "presenter" or host, Michael Nejemhia, with the hip, relaxed style of Oscar Brown, Jr., led us through a classy, old school, real-Jazz TV show. Three simple studio cameras and a big ol' psychedelic background projector flashing smoke and polka dots behind us provided the perfect atmosphere. MTV could learn a few things... | |
| TOP | RWANDA |
| June 28 we boarded a plane bound for Kigali, Rwanda and were met there by PAO Ergibe Boyd. An energetic woman, we were soon whisked to our pleasant hotel “Des Mille Collines” (A Thousand Hills). Bobby and Rob bought beautiful Congolese carvings from a merchant in the lobby. Later that evening they heard drums (really) and stumbled upon a wonderful indigenous performance of ten drummers and various dancers and singers at the French Cultural Institute only a short walk from the hotel (we would play there the next night). At the same time, Gene was treated to dinner at the PAO’s residence along with her husband, Ted Boyd, a former member of the diplomatic corps. Little did Gene know that Ted would become our most exciting tour guide, which started that night with a crash lesson in Rwandan history from pre-colonial times to the present that included some very disturbing facts regarding the genocides that had taken place there - a grim reminder of man’s inhumanity to man. In contrast, Bobby and Rob met Jean Marie Kabarega, of the World Bank Health and Population Project (one of the GOOD things the World Bank is responsible for...), who took them to an open air grill restaurant next to the car wash (!) where they ate the most delicious grilled fish from Lake Tanganyika with their hands. The accompanying Habanero hot sauce (called Pili-Pili) was so good that we stopped by the next night so Rob could pick up a bottle to go. Then we took the Pili-Pili and Gene to another grill spot to get a fish of his own - and this one came glazed with some serious BBQ sauce! | |
| The following morning of June 29, the Trio proceeded to the US Embassy to meet with several Rwandan musicians. There we met an amazing older gentleman, Athanase Sento Re, who sang and played the Inanga - a kind of homemade lute (strings are strung across an elongated, dugout bowl). The Inanga is tuned in F# - ONLY! So Athanase started the songs and we followed best we could. One song with a 6/8 feel was a breeze, but the next one had a crazy groove in 9/4 (or something like that...). Gene and Bobby swung it to death and Rob just about got it (yeah - one rehearsal and two shows later). Athanase was our guest artist at our two Kigali shows - at the French Cultural Institute and at the home of Ambassador George Staples. At both places he brought the house down (we were pretty good too). | |
| The morning of June 30 we had not the happiest of visits to the genocide "museum," which is still under completion. The guards let us in (for a small "donation") even though it seemed closed. There were stacks of skulls, bones and clothing, and then stacks of coffins in mass graves. Seeing it that closely, it was nothing less than the aftermath of a holocaust. For relief, on the way back to the hotel we stopped at a country market where some lively kids posed for pictures and made us smile. There were all kinds of produce and fabrics and things to see. We were quite a sight to the folks there as well. Later that day, while Gene uploaded tour photos to the Fine Wine website, Mr. Kabarega took bobby and Rob for a tour of the city market place and through several neighborhoods of Kigali. Kigali seems to be a place that is rebuilding itself after massive tragedy. Admittedly, it could use some planning and engineering help, but we didn't notice the same extremes we saw in Lusaka (not counting the Ambassador's house, et al.). | |
| Ergibe Boyd's Eritrean chef cooked us dinner on our last night. Ergibe is also Eritrean. Eritrea separated from Ethiopia - so we basically had a homemade Ethiopian feast. Delicious chicken, greens and lentils all scooped up with the succulent, moist Ethiopian bread called Injara and topped with fiery Awase (hot sauce). | |
| TOP | KENYA II |
| July 1 - We returned to Nairobi for a day off. Bobby and Rob went shopping (of course). Gene (the responsible one) did a radio interview at Capital FM 98.4. Finally we were famous - at least in Nairobi (and fame is what we're after in Jazz - the money really isn't that great, you know...) | |
| July 2 - The trio flew to Kisumu (on the shores of Lake Victoria, which is bigger than the whole country of Rwanda) for a performance at the Tom Mboya Labour College. The (not so well-promoted) concert was rather sparsely attended. Included in the gallant few, however, was His Worship (!) the Mayor of Kisumu (& posse) and filling out our tiny but loyal crowd were about 3 million mosquitoes. The trio, immune to the little pests thanks to Bobby's Viet Nam-strength insect repellent, had fun watching the 12 or so audience members slap themselves silly throughout the show. Band and audience roles were reversed, as the people seemed to be grooving up into a strange, spastic swatting dance. Thank goodness His Worship knew where to eat. He took us to the Kisumu Beach Club for a romantic lakeside dinner of what else - grilled fish/eat with your fingers! The mayor, it turns out, is a big hot sauce fan, so he dug our Pili-Pili. We finished off the evening with a surprise-shopping trip to the Beach Club's gift shop, which had many beautiful soapstone carvings (yeah, we needed more stuff...). Bobby found 2 unique pieces, while Rob bought smaller gifts and Gene found a soapstone child - or rather, a gorgeous, 30-pound soapstone elephant, which he carried everywhere, cradled in his arms, for the rest of the trip. | |
| July 3 - We got the keys to the city from His Worship the Mayor at his office. Actually, he gave us the key for the photo-op and then took it back and gave us this little plastic thing to keep, but it was sweet nonetheless. More shopping (!) on the way to the airport. Now, everybody knows that Kenya has some of the best coffee in the world, right? Well just don't order it at airports, cause it's NAAASTY!!! After some tea and rolls, we flew back to Nairobi to play at Ambassador Jonnie Carson’s (yeah, Jonnie Carson's) residence. There we found out that Ambassador Carson was a real Jazz fan that let us at his CD collection. We DJ'ed the party with Monk and Miles. Bobby and Rob met Dan Oburu, an exporter of jewelry and soapstone (all that shopping they did on their own - and here was the man himself!). | |
| Happy 4th of July! We woke up very (very) early to play at the Precious Blood Girls High School - the best high school in Nairobi. 350 screaming high school girls! Stars at last! We felt like the Jackson 3. After every tune, the girls would erupt in screams of approval. They were so beautiful that Bobby had tears flowing as he announced "When You Wish Upon A Star" and told the girls they could do anything they put their minds and hearts to. After the show, the girls rushed the stage for autographs - we signed all 350 of them. Their music teacher, Ken, and some of the sisters had a reception for us afterwards with tea and hot chocolate and the most delicious cake. The whole thing was so very sweet and moving. | |
| That afternoon, Dan Oburu took Bobby and Rob to his jewelry man at the African market and made sure they got some good deals. He also gave rob a 25 pound chunk of raw soapstone for Rob's friend, Walter Booker, for his carvings. Then we spent a couple hours at Nairobi National Park looking for elephants and rhinos and lions. We saw 2 not so wild boars, some monkeys, 3 ostrich, some deer and a bunch of giraffes off in the distance. We were told that the lion (THE lion) was out by the airport (don't order the coffee!). | |
| We'd heard about a restaurant called the Carnivore where you can eat piles of all types of exotic meats. Turns out we had a gig there. The sound was terrible so it wasn't much of a show, but when we sat down to eat, the real show began. Long swords with chicken pieces and slabs of meat on them started coming around. Along with normal grill fare, we tried Zebra, Ostrich and Alligator. I guess we better speak up for Gene, the vegetarian, at this point. I think they found him some peas and salad. The Ostrich was the only really tasty thing - the alligator was fatty and the rest was just a big overdone food show. Nice to check it out... once. The place turns into a huge teen disco after a while. That night was "Rock Night" - not the grooviest jams... Actually, the real highlights there were that Dan Oburu and his Harlem-born wife, Jackie came to see us along with Laura Wahome, a designer who had helped us out of a jam at the airport and of course, we won't forget lovely Judey in the internet cafe next door. | |
| TOP | JORDAN |
| On July 5 we flew to Amman, Jordan via Addis Ababa and Cairo. Another 18 hour or so epic flight nightmare at the end of which, our luggage didn’t make it - again. Gene (lucky Gene) filled out all the papers and then we had to drive an hour to the Movenpick Dead Sea Hotel. The hotel was great - a replica of a mountain village, complete with pools, bars, a serious spa and access to the Dead Sea. Of course we had no clothes or instruments, but so what! The next day Bobby and Gene took the drive back to Amman to check out rental bass and drums (there was a piano for Rob at the gig) and to shop for some clothes to play in that night. Rob couldn't conceive of going anywhere but the beach and so elected to stay behind and pay $150 at the hotel shop for some toothpaste, a shirt and some flip-flops. We all took a swim in the Dead Sea - incredible feeling, once you get used to your eyes burning from the salt (not to mention the burning in other sensitive regions). It's so salty that you can float like you have a raft, but there's no raft. Rob saw people on the beach covered in black mud and tried it himself. This mud that they sell for up to $30 a blob is there on the shore for the digging. Rob covered himself and baked like fish in a crust. This mud sucks all the poisons in your skin out, and you are reborn (and smell like sulfur for the next 3 days...). | |
| The concert that night was in the little amphitheater at the hotel. HRH Prince Ra'ad Zaid (the great uncle of King Hussein) was there and he loved our show - said it was like his college days of Jazz clubs and hanging out. We had dinner with the Prince and his son the Prince and his daughter in law, HRH Princess Majda Ra'ad. We all had a royal time together talking about two kings, Duke Ellington and Louis Armstrong. | |
| The next morning, July 7, we drove to Petra in a red BMW. We stayed at an amazing hotel called the Taybet Zaman. This place actually WAS a mountain village until they converted it. There are beautiful stone buildings with cozy, cavernous rooms. Plum and pomegranate trees, honeysuckle bushes and fresh herbs were all around. The place is surrounded by the arid, rocky desert mountains of Jordan. We visited the hidden city of Petra - a whole city carved into sandstone mountains. Bobby and Gene climbed to the top for the amazing view. Rob stayed at ground level and left early to talk with the local merchants. Their mood wasn't so bright, as the tourism in Jordan is nearly dead these days. Jordan borders on Israel and Iraq, both trouble zones. People visiting the Mid-East like to go to several countries, so if two of them are considered dangerous, they don't go at all. Back at the hotel, Rob had a Turkish steam bath and massage, followed by a glass of special herb tea, and a walk around the hotel grounds at sunset. Gene was at the restaurant listening to a musical duo play Oud and Tabla (mid-eastern guitar and drum). Rob joined him and taped some of their wonderful performance, after which he snuck into town by taxi for dinner - a combination plate of falafel, hummus, other mid-east salads and a chicken shawarma sandwich - with special Jordanian chili sauce, of course. | |
| On July 8 we returned to Amman - really a spiffy town - bustling, clean, attractive, but with soul. Bobby and Rob did some more shopping - their final stop (we hoped). They got back to the hotel too late and Gene did a radio interview on his own. Our gig that night was at a restaurant/nightclub called the “Blue Fig Cafe.” The sound check was great - nice piano, good sound system, outdoor stage, beautiful evening, etc. We were looking forward to a great gig. Turns out that people don't really go there to listen AT ALL. We got through it, though, and stopped for some tasty sandwiches on the way home to make up for it. | |
| July 9 - We did a workshop at the National Music Conservatory. Nice response from students there and even played with a good guitarist who showed us an old Jordanian pop song that we jammed on for a while. Then he joined us on "Girl From Ipanema." Our last performance of the tour was given for invited guests at the Ambassador’s residence on the grounds of the US Embassy. Kind of a strange place for a house, but safe enough, we guess. On the way home, our driver stopped for us to shop for some last minute souvenirs and ingredients for our "Avoid Airline Food" picnic, to be prepared by Rob. We bought all kinds of vegetables, beautiful breads and sweets. Our final stop was at the fabulous Izhiman Trade & Import where we bought amazing perfumes, nuts, spices and coffee. Izhiman was real treat. Rob and Gene went to hang out for a while at Nai, a wild nightclub in the basement of the hotel, then we all packed and Rob put the picnic together for the plane home. | |
| Tuesday, July 10 we flew to New York from Amman via Paris, ending a great tour. We shared our Jordanian sweets with fellow passengers. The Fine Wine Trio is looking forward to the Blue Note performances in August, and recording the “Pops” CD, inspired by "Pops," of course, and by all the sights and sounds and tastes and people we encountered on our journey. |
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